Winter-Proof Plumbing Victoria
There is a certain unordinary mess that can be avoided with some ordinary work, which is where one begins to winter-proof plumbing in Victoria. Do not wait for a proper cold snap to have at you; put in an inspection of the hot water system, drainage, outdoor taps, hoses and any exposed pipes beforehand. That way a minor weakness will not turn into a burst pipe or something more pressing.
My name is Simon Redcliffe. I am a Melbourne homeowner with a crooked weatherboard cottage and clay soil as hard as concrete, not to mention Arthur the greyhound who takes drizzle as a personal affront. One comes to appreciate that while getting the plumbing ready for winter has none of the glamour of a new coat of paint on the hallway, it is of far more use when the rain is coming down on the roof at 2 am. What follows is a guide for doing so in this part of Melbourne, out in regional Victoria, the Macedon Ranges, Ballarat or Gippsland.
The Case For Winter Plumbing
Frost, cold snaps and heavy rain are what you get in a Victorian winter, along with their share of temperature swings. Such conditions have a way of overwhelming gutters and drainage that were adequate in drier times, or freezing the water in pipework and revealing weak joints. Learn more about winter plumbing problems Victoria.
With good preparation you can stave off water damage and ensure essential services do not go down. It also means you can put in a call to a licensed plumber at your leisure instead of vying with everyone else for one. The idea is to make sure the floor is dry by locating any weak spots.
What The Risks Are In Victoria
You will find damp weather, old outdoor plumbing and blocked downpipes in many a Melbourne house. Up in the high-altitude country around Ballarat and the Macedon Ranges the frosts are harder and nights colder, whereas in Gippsland a homeowner might want to be more mindful of runoff and saturated ground.
It is true that frozen pipes are not as much of an issue here as they are in the northern hemisphere, but “less common” is not the same as impossible. Freezing puts pressure on a fitting or can split a pipe since water will expand about 9 per cent. You may not be aware of it until the ice has thawed and the water is running again.
An Inspection Of Your Pipes
For the problems most Victorian homeowners can head off, a thorough look over is the least expensive option. There is no need for any specialist gear on the first pass; a torch and a dry cloth will do.
Staining, corrosion, a mouldy odour, damp earth or a change in water pressure should all be noted. If a pipe is leaking a little it is not going to mend itself because the weather has been miserable, it will just have an audience for it.
Locating Weaknesses And Leaks
Make a check of the area under the sink, the back of the toilet, washing-machine hookups and the hot water system. Put a dry cloth to the joints and come back to it in a few minutes. Straight lengths of pipe are less likely to be the source than a valve or flexible hose.
In the garage, crawl space or roof space, inspect what is on show. Gaps and cracks let in the cold. An air leak at a pipe penetration in an uninsulated roof cavity will chill the pipe quicker than the rest of the room.
Any Outdoor Problems?
See to the pipework for sheds, garden irrigation and outdoor taps. Insulation that has split, brackets on the loose, a pipe chafing against some masonry from the wind or the odd job in the garden are all things to watch for.
Should you have water pooling by the house or a drop in pressure, get a professional in. Leave the towels and tape aside for a pressurised leak, otherwise a five-minute job will cost you a Saturday.
Insulation To Ward Off Frost
This is of particular value for any pipework in a shaded wall, a garage or under the floor where protection is wanting. It slows the loss of heat.
But do not think of insulation as some kind of magic shield. It is only going to put off the freeze, so it needs to be in concert with sensible airflow control and checks for leaks. Make sure you have the right size for the application and that it is a snug fit without being crushed. Neatly seal the joins to keep the cold out. And there is no point in wrapping up a corroded or damaged pipe and hoping the matter is resolved. Start with the pipe repair. In doing so, be sure to leave insulation well clear of flues and hot exhausts, as well as any spot where the manufacturer has put a safety prohibition on contact.
High-Risk Locations need protection
Make a priority of insulating exposed pipes in roof cavities, unheated garages or an external laundry, and those on the shaded or southern aspect of the property. Frost will make short work of pipes that are close to a vent or cladding gap.
One does not have to look hard for people who do this incorrectly: they will put insulation on the long stretch of pipe in plain sight and overlook the taps, joins and elbows. Yet a short bit left unprotected is enough to freeze and make trouble. Think of it as a system to be treated in its entirety.
Taps, Hoses And Irrigation
It is easy to forget about garden hoses and outdoor taps since they are outside the living quarters, but they are also where leaks tend to originate if water gets trapped in a connection and freezes. A little preparation goes a long way to safeguard the plumbing and the garden; it will also stop a burst hose from silently watering the side path for three days while you are at work.
Drain and Disconnect Hoses
Before the really cold nights set in, take the garden hoses off the outdoor taps. Empty them, put them under cover and coil them up, being careful not to kink them. A hose left on can force water against the tap and invite cracking.
Give the wall penetrations, threaded connections and tap washers a once over. Put in new washers where they are damaged and have a tap mended if it still drips when you have shut it; a dripping tap is a waste and will keep a fitting damp in cold weather.
Irrigation Lines
Where possible, drain the lines of an irrigation system, particularly the more elevated or exposed parts. For backflow devices, pumps, valves and automatic controllers, adhere to what the manufacturer says. Some systems are not a matter of just opening a tap and call for a professional. Do not be casual in disconnecting or making changes to a backflow prevention device; they are there to keep the drinking water free of contamination and may have to be serviced by someone with the right qualifications.
Rainwater Drainage
You can expect winter rain to put the whole route from the roof to the stormwater to the test. If gutters are clogged or downpipes in disrepair, water will be directed at your walls, paths, foundations and underground plumbing.
Get the drainage in order before it gets properly wet and have another look after a big storm. The rain in Victoria has a mind of its own and does not always come calling in a polite manner.
Gutters and Downpipes
With the aid of safe access equipment and proper fall-prevention, clear out the mud, leaves and other debris from the roof. On a steep or slippery roof it is better to engage a professional than to be on a ladder in the wet.
See that the downpipes are soundly attached and the gutters have a fall to the outlets. Any rust holes or sagging should be noted, as should water marks on the exterior. A downpipe letting water out next to the house will cause dampness and can lead to soil shifting at the foundations.
Put the drainage to the test in a light shower and see that the water from the roof and paving makes for the drain and does not pool by the house. There is no directing stormwater on to a neighbour’s property. Should you find gurgling or slow drains, get to the bottom of it before the heavy rain comes; silt, tree roots or a collapse might necessitate a camera inspection or cleaning. Make sure pets and children are kept from open pits and drains and the like.
The Bureau of Meteorology’s Victorian weather information is the place to go for local forecasts and rainfall data when one is planning to be at work outdoors.
Hot Water System
In winter a hot water system needs to be dependable; a cold shower ceases to be character building and becomes a complaint. Inspect it before the demand is on and a minor fault has taken all the hot water.
Any pooling of water, odd noises, inconsistent heat, corrosion or a leaking connection will show themselves. But unless you have the qualifications, do not tamper with the gas, pressure or electrical components or take the covers off.
Sensible Temperature Settings
Do a safe inspection before winter. The temperature and pressure relief valve outlet should be checked for any sign of it running continuously, though one must not cap or block it. Leave the area around the unit unobstructed for a technician.
On a gas system be on the alert for any unusual odour. You would only turn off the supply if you are familiar with the isolation procedure and it is safe; otherwise, in the event of a suspected leak, vacate the premises and put in a call to a licensed professional or the emergency services.
What the right temperature is will be dictated by your system and its controls. One should not be swayed to alter settings on the strength of an internet sound bite if there is any chance it will compromise energy consumption, scald protection or the safety of the system; put in a call to a licensed plumber or the manufacturer for some direction.
Then there is the “135 rule”. Homeowners would do well not to think of this as an Australian plumbing standard to be applied across the board. Should anyone proffer a recommendation for an adjustment, enquire as to what regulation or equipment it is for. After all, hot water has its uses but scalding does not.
Locating Your Main Shut-Off
It is incumbent on every household to have an idea of where the main shut-off valve is before a pipe gives way. You do not want to start looking for it when you are in the dark with water over the laundry floor.
Look in the garage or service area, by the meter or along the side passage and front boundary. The valve could be in a meter box or at the point of entry to the property. See that it is not hidden under an overzealous climbing plant, some boxes in storage or garden soil.
An Emergency Response to Practise
Make sure the valve will turn without putting force on a seized one. If it will not budge, have it seen to before winter sets in. Put the location in your home maintenance file and make certain all adults in the house are aware of it.
In the event of a burst pipe, your first move is to cut off the water, then only switch off the electricity if it is safe and water has made contact with electrical gear. A licensed plumber can be called after that. Photograph the damage for your records and get valuables out of the way. RACV can be of assistance with insurance and emergency procedures, policy and membership permitting.
A Winter Plumbing Checklist
Put this to use on a Saturday morning. Go outside and work your way through the service areas, making a note of anything that requires a professional.
On a one-day job the priority ought to be the hot water system, exposed pipework, drainage, outdoor taps and the water main valve. Those in high-altitude or frosty parts of regional Victoria should give pipe insulation and irrigation drainage top billing.
- Take stock of exposed valves, joints and hoses for any sign of a leak or corrosion. Repair what is damaged and put in some insulation on vulnerable spots.
- Garden hoses should be disconnected and drained, as should irrigation lines per the instructions; check for loose fittings on the outdoor taps. Make sure pumps and controllers are protected.
- Before the heavy rain comes, clear the surface drains, downpipes and gutters.
- Give the hot water system once over for leaks, odd noises or unsafe access.
- Test the water main shut-off (do not force it) and have a torch, bucket and towels to hand along with the number of a licensed plumber.
When To Get Help
Leave the DIY to observation and simple upkeep. Once pressure, gas, structural access or drinking-water protection come into play it is risky business. A licensed plumber is needed for failed hot water systems, sewer issues, concealed or burst pipes and the like.
For non-urgent matters, insist on a price and written scope beforehand. There is no telling the cost of a repair in metropolitan Melbourne versus one that involves a long haul in the country; emergency calls after hours will run you more than something planned.
Some FAQs
I am asked these most when the forecast is cold. The answers here are straightforward enough though a serious fault or an unusual system is best left to an expert.
Winter steps?
You will find the usual risks mitigated by checking the hot water system and water main valve, insulating pipes, draining your irrigation and clearing the gutters. No need to make of your home a plumbing laboratory.
The 135 Rule?
Not a universal in Australia. It might be a trade term or a product recommendation, but the setting is a matter of safety and controls. Check with the manufacturer.
Heater temperature?
Do not go about looking for some magic figure, use what is suited to your appliance and home. Heaters should be kept from curtains and furniture and ventilated as the maker says. For hot water temperature a qualified person should have a look.
Draining the pipes?
Open the tap and let it run to drain safely after shutting the supply for a bit of outdoor maintenance. Draining the whole house is another matter and can impact backflow devices and fire services among other things; do not try it unless you have the proper instructions.
Victorian pipes freeze?
They can, especially in exposed and under-insulated sections during a hard frost in the regions. Insulation will help but it is no substitute for repairs.
To be winter-ready in Victoria
There is little to it but catching small problems in time. A labelled shut-off and a dry cloth will see you through the first cold snap with less stress.
I make it a point to do my rounds before Arthur will be coaxed off the porch: the roof drainage, the outdoor taps, and I verify the water valve is at hand. Not exactly exciting, but neither is mopping up a flooded laundry in one slipper. Some maintenance of the sort Victorian homes put in before the weather changes makes for a drier and less dramatic season.
